By Koen De Smedt
Intro
The Napoleonic uniform was designed to make the soldiers look
bigger and more impressive, as this would have a psychological effect in
demoralising the enemy. In combat this could be the only edge you had, as
Napoleonic combat was often about morale and the mind - a bayonet charge hardly
ever led to hand to hand fighting as one of the sides would usually give up
before any contact was made: the attacker would stop dead in his tracks or the
defender would turn and run.
The uniform was not designed to make life easy or comfortable
for the soldier. I invite any of you to join us for an afternoon, wearing wool
cloth uniforms on a hot sunny day, or non watertight wool clothes on a cold and
rainy day. And having a large leather and felt "bucket" on your head,
wearing hot and tight wool clothes, worn shoes, a backpack with tight straps, a giberne, a
sabre and 20 pounds of musket isn't exactly a picnic either. Don't
ask me why we do it...
I will now try and describe the various bits of clothing and
equipment comprising a French fusilier's uniform. Where possible (almost
everywhere) I will add pictures of photographs. I'll do it from the head to the
feet, and ending with the bits of equipments hanging off a fusilier's body.
At the end of the article I will try and give some general
tips for Napoleonic re-enactors making their uniform.
The uniform that we wear in our effort to depict the 85ème as
it would have looked from 1812 on, till 1815 (Waterloo) is the so-called Bardin
uniform. This uniform was created because of the limitations of the old uniform
(with the habit longue) and to re-uniformise units, since many units had changed
bits and pieces of the old uniform. The Bardin uniform was introduced in 1812,
and some units (or parts of units) will certainly have received it before the
Russian campaign. The majority however will still have started the Russian
campaign in their old uniforms (and most ended it in clothing only vaguely
resembling any uniform...). Even at Waterloo, some units still partly wore the
old 1806 uniform with the habit longue and the waistcoat, and the lozenge shaped
shako plate.
Please, keep in mind that I will be describing the uniform and equipment pieces for as we use them, i.e. as would be
worn by a fusilier in a line regiment in the post 1812 period, this is wearing
the Bardin regulation uniform. Light (Légère) regiments, cavalry, guard
regiments etc... would have bits of clothing that could be slightly to
completely different from this.
Headdress
Not wearing a hat was not done in 18th and 19th century
society, so I must urge all members and reenactors to wear something on their
heads at all times - usually that would be the pokalem, as the shako was only
used for specific tasks (combat, parade, guard duty) and tenues.
Shako.
From the polish czapka, meaning hat.
Made of leather and felt, peaked, and about 25 to 30 cms high. Aimed to make
the soldier look bigger and more impressive. On the front of the shako would be
the plaque (see below) or regimental plate, in our period the eagle-type. The
plate would also have the regimental mark (the regiment's number) for
recognition. Also on the shako are the jugulaires (chinscales),
brass plates on leather bands, worn up on most occasions (the strings tied round
the pompon on top), but down in battle (jugulaires en bataille). They would help
against sabre blows to the face and 
cheeks, and also keep out most of the flash
from your neighbour's musket's pan. On top of the shako would be the plume or pompon,
depicting your company. These would be green, sky blue, aurore (yellowish
orange) and violet for the 1st to 4th companies respectively, red plumes for
grenadiers and musicians and yellow and green plumes for voltigeurs. Staff
members and officers would be wearing white plumes or pompons.
The shako would also have the French cocarde (cockade) of white,
red and blue.
Inside the shako would be some space for items to be put, this would usually be
the couvre-shako (shako cover), made of white, grey, black or
beige toile-ciré (waxed cloth), and completely covering the shako, and usually
having a bit of cloth to protect the neck. It would often have the
regimental number on the front. But soldiers would also put other items in the
shako to safeguard them (as soldiers do), like pipes, spoons and forks, tobacco,
pompons, etc...
Pokalem or bonnet de police.
From the polish for cap.
The pokalem replaced the earlier bonnet de police (police cap - something
resembling a present day forage cap) from 1812.
It is a blue cloth cap, with button up flaps and peak, and with red piping and
regimental number. It's main advantage was that it's flaps could be buttoned
down, to keep the ears and cheeks warm, as would often be used for sleeping
rough or when cold (sometimes worn under the shako with the flaps down).
The earlier bonnets de police would still be worn by some troops, most often by
officers, musicians and sappeurs.
When not worn, the pokalem (or bonnet) would be rolled up and strapped
underneath the giberne, with the number clearly visible.
In 1813 and 1814 many new recruits would march to the front with only the pokalem, and without the shako, as logistic problems led to a shortage of
leather and felt, and, hence, shakoes.
Cols (neckwear)
Not wearing something round your neck was not done in 18th and
19th century society, so I must urge all members and reenactors to wear
something around their necks (be it a stock, a simple neck cloth or a cravatte)
at all times
Every soldier would receive two cols noirs (black stock) and
one col blanc (white stock). The col noir is a horrible contraption, made of
black cloth or linen, lined with white linen, and filled with cardboard. It's
purpose was to hold up the head and straighten the neck. And look smart, of
course. The French were luckier than the British, since no Frenchman would be so
sadistic as to make his soldiers wear the leather stocks that the British used.
The col noir is used in most tenues, but on campaign it would often be replaced
by neck cloths of every description, colour and denomination. A soldier looks
after his comfort!
Coat and jackets
Habit-veste
The habit-veste is the uniform jacket. It is a tight, woollen, dark blue
jacket with rather short white turnbacks (as compared to the habit longue
of the early Imperial armies). It has a red collar piped blue (or white), red
cuffs with blue cuff flaps (piped white), red piping in false pockets on the
tails and a white (piped red) folded back plastron (front). There are triangular
ended epaulettes on both shoulders, with red piping. This white front can be
folded shut and buttoned up whenever necessary. The front is fastened with eyes
and hooks, and the buttons used are regimental styled, bearing a decoration and
the regimental number. There are 22 small and 8 large buttons on the jacket. It
is lined with undyed linen, and has one pocket on the inside of the right tail.
There are four blue "N"s on the turnbacks (one on each).
There is no further decoration on the jacket, apart from the rank signs (two
aurore or yellow on red stripes on eacht sleeve for caporaux, one gold on red on
each sleeve for sergents and two gold on red on each sleeve for sergent-majors.
Fourriers have an additional red stripe on the upper sleeve) and service stripes
(one stripe for each seven years of service, maximum three stripes). These are
sewn on the left upper sleeve.
Gilet à manches (Sleeved Gilet)
The
gilet is a short, white woollen, single breasted jacket, with dark blue
cuffs, epaulettes and collar (no piping), and one true and one false pocket on
the body. Lined with undyed linen. Buttons could be regimental styles (as for
the habit), wooden, horn or metal. It would be worn underneath the habit or the
greatcoat.
Capote
The capote or greatcoat is a large sized woollen coat, lined with coarse
undyed linen, and having wooden, horn or cloth covered buttons. It would be used
a scold or foul weather jacket (sometimes with the gilet worn underneath) and
usually double as blanket when sleeping rough. The greatcoat was only regulation
issued from 1806 (although worn long before that - a soldier is an animal of practicality
and looks after his own comfort). There is not really a regulation cut or style,
and colours vary from grey over beige to brown and even dark blue (although that
was theoretically reserved for the Garde, the navy and the artillery). In 1813
and 1814 this would often be the only coat that new recruits received, with
cloth and dye shortages affecting the issuing of habits and gilets.
Legwear
Pantalons de tricot or d'étoffe
Or dress trousers. These are trousers made of a white stretchy woollen cloth
(something like jersey or serge), and worn for formal occasions. In cold
conditions, soldiers would wear them underneath their pantalons de toile to keep
warm. In principle they were full length, and supposed to be worn underneath the
gaiters, but would often be cut off under the knees (just inside the gaiters).
They would open with a flap draw fly at the front, no zips (of course not!!) or
button flies.
Pantalons de toile
Cloth working trousers (overalls), usually linen, calico or canvas, sturdy
made, and with a flap draw fly at the front. Usually undyed, but striped or
white cloth or other colours could also be used. These are service, campaign and
often combat trousers. These would sometimes be pretty baggy, and sometimes too
long, and in some circumstances soldiers would tie the legs with string, to keep
out dust and other things, or rolled up.
Both trousers would have buttons on the outside at the waist
for the bretelles (braces).
Demi-guêtres noirs
Worn with formal dress. Black knee length (shorter than in the earlier
Imperial period) woollen gaiters, fastened at the side with 20 to 22 leather
buttons per gaiter, and kept up with a leather gaiter strap tied under the knee.
Demi-guêtres gris
Worn with informal dress. Undyed knee length linen or canvas gaiters,
fastened at the side with about 10 wooden buttons per gaiter, and kept up with a
leather gaiter strap tied under the knee.
The denomination demi-guêtres (half gaiters) is used to make
the distinction with the old full length gaiters of the Early Imperial uniform
that would reach well above the knee, as still in use in the guards. The Bardin
uniform had shorter gaiters, that only reached to just under the knee. This is
probably a response to soldiers' practice to cut off the old long gaiters just
under the knee. Another fine example of regulations changing to accommodate
practice.
Both types of gaiter would have a leather strap at the bottom,
fastening on the bottom button and going underneath the sole of the shoe. This
would keep the gaiters tight, and would make sure nothing could get up your leg.
Judging by the state of the shoes, and speaking out of experience, it must have
also kept their shoes on their feet.
Underwear
Caleçon à toile
Although little worn by the lower classes, the army issued long drawers to the
soldiers, which would usually be worn, if only to avoid having to wash the
trousers often, and to keep warm. These would be full length linen or
cotton drawers, with a button up fly, and a cord round the waist or at the back to fit. They look
somewhat like modern pyjama bottoms.
Chemises
Soldiers would be issued three pairs of undyed linen shirts, that they would
use somewhat like we use t-shirts today. They would wear them always, underneath
every tenue, and would also sleep in them. Since they had only three pairs, and
occasions to wash were not always very frequent (well, I'll just leave that to
your imagination....).
Footwear
Souliers
Shoes in this period would be sturdy and completely made of leather. The issued
infantry shoe is low, rather square and has no difference between a left and a
right foot. Still, they are surprisingly comfortable. Soldiers were supposed to
alternate shoes between left and right, this would avoid excessive wear. They
would fasten with either a metal buckle or a bit of (leather) string (like
modern shoes). The leather soles would not have much grip on wet surfaces
(especially grass), so they would often be hobnailed. Apparently hobnails (clous)
were specific to each army, and the patterns in which the shoes were nailed, would
also differ between armies.
As shoes were the item that was fastest worn out, and armies would never have
enough of them, soldiers would often use "captured" civilian shoes
(there is a story of a French general threatening to loot a German town if they
didn't bring him 20.000 pairs of shoes for his division), home made shoes,
completely worn out shoes, held together with string, wooden clogs (sabots),
tied up rags or nothing at all.
Socks
Soldiers would be issued with several pears of cotton knee
length socks (demi-bas). As socks have the same tendecy as shoes, to wear out fast, often
they would have used anything they could lay their hands on, or not worn socks
inside their shoes (of they were lucky enough to have decent shoes in the first
place).
Equipment
Havresac
The French regulation backpack was a calfskin or cowhide (usually brownish)
pack, with two inside compartments, closed with three white straps with brass
buckles, and carried over both shoulders back with two white straps, fastened
with a wooden button on the bottom of the pack. On top would be the capote (or
the habit), fastened with two white straps, and a third white strap would be
around it all.
Inside the havresac would be the soldier's possessions, all he had was what he
could carry. This would be spare clothing (anything he wasn't wearing at the
time, usually spare shirts and drawers, trouser(s), some cartridges, personal
items (soap and some kind of towel, glasses if he needed them, shaving kit,
cleaning gear (shoe polish, belt whitener, brass polish, ...), cutlery, cards,
money, maybe some herbs or salt or pepper, ...) and whatever else he possessed.
Strapped on the outside would be all that wouldn't fit in, apart from the
capote, like spare shoes, clogs, the bidon or marmite of it was his
turn to carry it, dry wood and food.
There is also some discussion about whether or not a cover was used to roll up
the capote or the habit in before it was strapped to the havresack. Pictorial
evidence is unclear, but it isn't mentioned in the regulations. Some reenactment
units do use them, while others don't...
Giberne
Cartridge box. This was a leather box, with a large flap, containing a cut
out wooden block. In this block were three sections, two large square ones, each
containing a pack of 15 cartouches, a 6 drilled holes in the middle,
containing five ready cartridges and the oil bottle. More cartridges would be in
the backpack. Gun maintenance gear, spare flints, a horn or wooden practice
flint and a turnscrew would be in a small pouch outside the box proper, inside
the giberne, or elsewhere in the kit.
On the large flap would be a brass "N", as decoration, but also to
keep down the flap, even when not buckled down. Inside the main flap would be a
lighter second flap, as a safety double.
On campaign the giberne would often be protected by a couvre-giberne
(cartridge box cover), an undyed linen cover, pulled over the large
outside flap.
The giberne would be worn over the left shoulder on a white leather belt (banderole
or porte-giberne),
and fastened with a short leather strap to a button on the waist of the habit
(or capote or gilet), this to avoid swinging of the box in the ranks. The
giberne belt would also hold the bayonet scabbard in a frog with a strap and a
buckle, the French not using cross belts.
Underneath the giberne were two white leather straps with brass buckles, to
strap on the pokalem.
All the leather straps were sturdy buff leather, rough side out, and the
soldiers would spend hours whitening them with a mixture of pipe clay, dutch
blue and some other ingredients. And polishing all the brass bits on his
uniform. And his gun....
Bidon
Many types and varieties of water bottles were worn by soldiers. Glass in wicker, leather or wooden bottles or real gourdes (hollowed
out fruits of a pumpkin variety) would be worn with a string or a strap over the
right shoulder (at the left hip).
Non-regulation kit
Soldiers would often have bits of equipment that were not in the
regulations, but still very practical on campaign.
Bread bags are an item that is under discussion. It is an item that is
not in the regulations, and there is little pictorial evidence, but it was an item that was widely used in other armies to carry food and
other small articles, and since soldiers are quick to pick up handy features.... If worn, they would have been over the right shoulder, so
at the left hip.
Gloves (mitaines) would often be worn in cold conditions, usually
with cut off fingers, so as not to hinder loading the weapon, and if really
cold, leather mittens would be worn over them, sometimes the right one attached
to the sleeve with a string, so that it could be taken off when firing (there is
a famous picture of Maréchal Ney at the Beresina doing just that).
Weaponry
Fusil (Musket) and Baïonette (Bayonet)
Every soldier was (ideally) issued a musket with bayonet. The
musket would have a white leather sling (the bretelle de fusil), to carry the musket on route marches,
and in wet conditions, soldiers would often have a tampion (wooden or cork
roundel) to put in the barrel, and would have used oiled rags to cover the lock.
More about the gun (the Charleville model 1777, version An IX) can be found in
this separate article.
Sabre
These would only be issued to corporals, NCOs, grenadiers, voltigeurs and
musicians. Officers would have epées, and sappeurs special swords.
NCOs would have a second belt, the sabre belt, on which would be
a double frog, for sabre and bayonet. They would have a straight giberne belt,
without the bayonet frog. Both belts would be strapped together at the back, so
avoid swinging in the ranks.
In theory corporals would have a sabre belt with a single frog, like musicians,
(or a double one, but not using the bayonet frog), so that they would make the
same motions as the soldats when pulling the bayonet. It is not clear
whether this was also true in practice.
Tips for reenactors
The main thing that you have to take care of when making
uniform and equipment, is to use materials that would have been in use at the
time. So, use only natural cloth (wool, linen, calico, cotton - but not too much
cotton, they would have used linen instead for most purposes!). The same goes
for small items, such as buttons. Aluminium or plastic buttons are out of the
question, wood, horn, metal or cloth covered buttons will do the job perfectly.
The same goes for your accessories. Try and find things that
look (or are) authentic when buying plates, bowls, cutlery, glasses etc... Don't
use modern army mess tins - they are so unbelievably, and obviously, modern.
Second hand stores and firms specialising in re-enactors and living history can
provide you with all you need.
Leather is also a dead give away. Don't use modern "plastified"
leather, but go for real old fashioned buff leather. It may cost a bit more, and
need more maintenace (whitening etc...), but it looks so much better, it is
actually more comfortable to wear and to work with (it's softer).
A last remark on sewing. Of course all clothes in that era
would have been hand sewn, so you'd think I'd advise you to hand sew everything.
Well, actually I believe that you can get away very well with machine sewn
items, because their stitches would have been so small and regular as to
resemble machine stitching anyway. A good compromise might be to machine stitch
whatever you can't really see well, and only hand sew those bits that would give
it away.
I could say a lot more, but the main thing is: use your common
sense, and if in doubt, contact someone who should know, or at least knows
someone who knows ;-)
Good luck!
Artwork by Bill Teefy.
