The default weapon of the French infantry was the smoothbore flintlock musket Charleville, in our period mostly of the models 1777 or 1777, corrigé An IX (adapted in the year IX of the Revolution, 1801).
The weapon consists of three main parts: the stock (la crosse, the wooden part), a smoothbore barrel (le canon) and a lock (la patine, the firing mechanism).
The stock is made of wood (walnut, mostly) en contains the stock itself and the wooden part that encloses the barrel. The trigger mechanism is also embedded in the stock. At the end is a metal butt plate.
The barrel is hexagonal at the end and becomes smaller towards a circular mouth. The calibre is 16.9mm (.67inch). Barrel and stock are kept together with three rings, that are attached to the stock by three springs (two and a screw for the earlier 1777 model) and a screw at the end of the barrel. The barrel has a small opening (the touchhole - la lumière) where the pan is attached, that allows the powder inside the barrel to be detonated. A small metal bit is welded at the top of the barrel, to fix the bayonet.
These parts can be found on the lock: the cock (le chien), that holds the flint, which is placed with a bit of lead or leather, the brass pan (le bassinet), in which powder is poured to light the charge, and which also has a steel frizzen or cover (le couvre-bassinet). This cover prevents the powder falling out of the pan, when the musket is handled. It is this steel frizzen that the flint strikes when the trigger is pulled, a mechanism that creates the sparks. The firing mechanism has three springs, two on the inside (one each for cock and trigger) and one on the outside (for the frizzen)
The lock is attached to the stock with two screws.
OperationA small quantity of powder (le poudre noir) is poured in the pan (amorcer). This quantity can be very small (about the size of the white half moon on your thumbnail). In practice however a bit more should be used, depending on the circumstances. Filling the bottom of the pan is usually more than sufficient. Too much powder in the pan leads to flashing, a process when burning powder can cause major nuisance and even injuries to yourself of your colleagues in the ranks
The remainder of the powder in the cartridge (la cartouche) is poured in the barrel, followed by the ball (le balle) (not when we re-enact, of course!) and the paper cartridge itself, which serves as wadding, to prevent the ball, which is smaller than the calibre of the barrel, to roll out when the musket is handled.
This is then rammed down with the ramrod (la baguette) (never when re-enacting, because a ramrod can be a lethal projectile).
When the cock is triggered (third position, all the way back), and the trigger is pulled, the trigger's spring unwinds, which causes the cock (which holds the flint) to slam forward. The flint (le silex) then strikes the steel frizzen, which causes sparks.
These sparks fall onto the powder in the pan, which ignites, and through the touchhole causes the powder in the barrel to ignite as well. This causes the formation of gas and the pressure forces the ball out of the barrel.
The barrel is smooth on the inside, unlike most modern rifled guns. Rifling causes a bullet to spin, which vastly improves range and accuracy.
ProblemsSeveral circumstances can adversely influence the firing process. Here are some of them and possible solutions.
It is also best to wipe off pan, frizzen and flint regularly (every couple of shots, or when you experience problems), with a bit of cloth, a brush or your fingers, and to prick the touchhole. After a while you get to know your gun, though, and you'll be confident to solve it's specific problems.
Maintenance.Also read this article on authentic cleaning.
Between two battles in one event, a quick field cleaning of your musket is most appropriate. In this case you only disassemble some parts of the gun, and you clean it a bit less thorough. After an event you can do a more thorough cleaning at home, where you have all your equipment and supplies, that you cannot take to an event. When you want to put away your musket for a longer period some extra precautions may be necessary.
What do you need to clean a musket? First a screwdriver. Then also some pieces of rags or cloth. A cleaning set to clean the inside of the barrel. This can be a very sophisticated set, or a simple brass appliance to screw on your ramrod. A brush (an old toothbrush or a copper brush). Oil (olive oil, weapon oil or car oil, like WD40). Powder solvent can be an asset, and some recipient to mix it in if necessary. Furthermore you need something to pour water down the barrel, and a match or bit of wood to shut off the touchhole. For a more thorough cleaning you also need a spring vise, some vaseline, brass polish and a rust remover. Scrubbers and steel wool can also be of service.
1. Field cleaning
Remove the lock from the musket by unscrewing both screws. Take the ramrod out. Unscrew the screw that holds the barrel to the stock. Remove the rings from the barrel, and take away the barrel. This is the best way to go, because if you keep the barrel screw till last, the barrel might fall out, damaging the stock.
Stick the barrel in the ground (not too deep) and pour hot water through it, till it comes out clear. When the barrel is very dirty, you can put a match in the touchhole and pour powder solvent and hot water in the barrel, and let it soak a while. Afterwards rinse with hot clear water. You can also scrub a bit with a brush set, or a bit of rag. Afterwards dry out the barrel, till it is clean and dry. Pour or spray some oil down the barrel, and swipe it through.
Afterwards, clean the outside of the barrel, and oil it. Oil your ramrod. Let it dry, as the oil will form a film on the metal.
Remove the flint from the cock. Open your frizzen. Clean your pan well (use powder solvent, WD40, brash polish and a brush). A dirty pan can cause problems when firing. Wipe off powder remains, and rinse with hot water. Dry off well, and oil it well, especially the mechanism on the inside.
Clean the stock. Wipe off the rings and oil them. Clean and oil all screws.
Reassemble your musket. Put a new flint in, if necessary; and wipe down the stock with an oiled rag. Take care when mounting the lock, so that the mechanism is well placed.
2. Thorough cleaning.
This is generally the same procedure, but more thorough.
If you want to, you can disassemble certain parts to be able to clean more thoroughly, more screws, frizzen and pan, etc… Remember to never remove a screw without using a spring vise, or let it unwind completely. If you do this, it can cause the spring to break.
Using a scrubber and a rust remover, you can remove rust from the metal parts. Don't forget to rinse and dry well afterwards. Oil all metal parts before assembly. You can use vaseline to give some extra protection to moving parts. If you want to store your musket for a longer period, you can use a less fluid oil.
Always remember to open the pan, and put the cock in the first position when you store your gun for more than a few hours, to relax the springs a bit.
I advise using a good bag to pack your musket, as this will good protection. These can be bought in gun or fishing shops or you can easily make them yourself.
FlintsAn important aspect of firing is the use of good flints. There are several sizes and brands on the market, and it takes a while to find the right one for your musket. Good flints for a Charleville are natural flints (black or grey), about an inch long, and half an inch wide. Not too thick, so they fit well in the holder, but not too thin, so they don't break too easily. They need to have a sharp edge to get good sparks, but again not too thin, so they don't lose their edge too quickly. Ideally a flint has two useable sides. A good stone gives about 30 shots, but a real good one gives you double or even triple that!
There are also agate flints, but I strongly advise against them, as they can damage your frizzen.
To fix a flint in its holder, use a bit of lead or leather. Don't place your flint too far back in the holder, nor too far to the front, and make sure it's not placed too far too the left, so that it strikes the barrel when firing.
AidsMake sure you always have a couple of spare flints in the little pouch of your giberne. I advise to also keep there a small tube with oil, some spare leads of bits of leather, and a small screwdriver.
Handy aids are the so-called brush-and-pricker sets, that have a horsehair brush to clean your pan and frizzen, and a pricker to clear the touchhole. A simple bit of cloth can sometimes work miracles as well, and a pricker can easily be improvised from copper wire.
When all is not clear yet, you can always ask a veteran for help or advice. For a couple of beers, they are usually very co-operative.